A fence that would stand for twenty years inland can be flat on the lawn after one bad winter in Bude. Depth is the biggest single factor in whether posts hold, but the right figure depends on fence height, how exposed your plot is and what the ground is made of. Here is what works on this stretch of coast.
The usual rule of thumb is to bury between a quarter and a third of the post's total length. For a standard 1.8m fence in a sheltered spot, that gives 600mm in the ground. In Bude, treat 600mm as the bare minimum and go deeper for anything that faces the Atlantic.
As a working guide for exposed coastal plots:
A solid fence panel behaves like a sail. The wind pushes on the whole face and the post acts as a lever, so the force at the base is far greater than the push at the top. An extra 150mm of depth makes a real difference to how much of that leverage the ground can resist.
Winter gales here routinely gust past 60mph, and plots in Upton, Flexbury, Crooklets and Widemouth Bay take them almost unbroken off the sea. Stratton and Poughill are more sheltered, though valleys can funnel wind in surprising ways. If your existing fence leans away from the south west or north west, that tells you where the load is coming from.
Ground conditions vary a lot over short distances. Near Summerleaze and Crooklets the soil can be sandy and free draining, which grips poorly, so holes need to be both deeper and wider. Further up the hill you are more likely to find clay and shillet (broken shale) over sandstone. Clay holds a post firmly but also holds water, which rots timber at ground level.
Hitting rock at 400mm is common. Do not simply stop there and hope. Either break out to full depth with a breaker, or cut a clean socket into sound rock and concrete the post into it, which can hold very well. Before any digging, check for buried cables, water pipes and drains, particularly along front boundaries where services usually run.
A deep hole filled badly is no better than a shallow one. These details matter as much as the measurement:
Garden fences can normally be up to 2m high without planning permission, or 1m where they sit next to a road or footpath used by vehicles. Parts of Bude and Stratton fall within conservation areas, and listed buildings carry tighter rules, so it is worth checking with Cornwall Council before ordering materials. A taller fence also means deeper posts, so settle the height first.
It can be in a sheltered garden with firm ground, but for most plots near the coast we would recommend 750mm. The extra depth costs little compared with replacing a fence that has blown over.
Concrete posts last longer and will not rot, which makes them a sound choice for exposed boundaries. Timber is fine if it is treated for ground contact, set on gravel for drainage and sized at 100mm square or more.
Either break out the rock to reach the proper depth or form a tight socket in solid rock and concrete the post into it. Loose or fractured shillet does not count as solid, so keep going until the ground is sound.
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